Fat Hamburgers Tempt Wispy Models in Harajuku: Tokyo Dining

Tokyo’s fashion epicenter, Harajuku, is where you’d go to buy a garish bag, spot whippet-thin models or goth-clad girls posing for pictures at the Meiji Jingu Shrine. Here, you’d also find some of the city’s best hamburgers. Called “hanbaga,” this American fast-food staple has undergone mutation to meet local taste: patties are often mixed with bread crumbs and other fillers, teriyaki sauce replaces ketchup and compressed-rice stands in for bread. Thankfully, there are chefs in Tokyo that specialize in the classic all-beef patty, freshly baked bread combo that hits my burger sweet spot. They are served in a cluster of eateries tucked in Harajuku’s side alleys, away from Prada, Chanel and other high- street stores. Expect to find jaw-stretching versions of the humble hamburger, teetering on layers of sliced tomato, lettuce, cheese and a hunk of meat. The same eye for detail that helped Japanese craftsmen forge world-beating swords, watches and hatchbacks in decades past is elevating hamburger-making to something of an art form. My first stop was Goro’s Diner -- in an alley a 10-minute stroll from the Harry Winston jewelers at the swank Omotesando Hills mall. On the weekday evening I trekked there, I was surprised to find myself the only customer at the cozy four- table diner known to have queues outside its door. Eagles, Lowenbrau The interior is comfortably downmarket and grimy, with the dimly lit room enlivened by blaring the Eagles and other rock staples and a glowing neon Lowenbrau beer sign. The menu has a wealth of topping options running from gumbo to pineapple, and I zoned in on the Classic Burger for 1,250 yen ($13) to narrow the focus on the all-important meat. My order arrived 10 minutes later, with a handful of wedge- cut fries. Like many gourmet burgers in Tokyo, Goro burgers are nestled in a kind of paper envelope that keeps the grease off your fingers and prevents the stuffed contents spilling out the other side when you bite. The bottom half of golden sesame bun was surprisingly thick, layered with a thick bed of lettuce, onion and tomato slice, followed by the patty, lean bacon, Swiss cheese and pickles. It’s a gorgeous arrangement of color and texture. If only it tasted as good. The first bite revealed the burger’s flaws: the fluffy bun and mound of lettuce drew attention from the meat patty, which was unforgivably overcooked. A few blocks toward the Aoyama neighborhood is J.S. Burgers Cafe. I ordered the joint’s signature Avocado Burger plus cheese (1,230 yen), while my guest chose the Vegetable Burger (900 yen). We sat in the shop’s outdoor terrace, which offered the view of a side of a building and a web of power lines. Gooey Cheese Our orders arrived, mine with its multigrain top swept rakishly to the side, revealing a mound of sweet relish, gooey cheese and fresh avocado slices. The patty, cooked on an angled grill was flavorful, though thin for a premium order. There was little moisture from the beef or the relish, a flaw that could be salvaged only with an ample douse of ketchup and mustard. What stood out were the fries, which were seasoned and very crisp. My companion’s veggie burger looked beautiful: its green- veggie patty topped with edamame beans, pumpkin and a garland of sprouts; but it was oh-so-tasteless, the curse of many meatless pretend burgers. The fried lotus-root chips on the side were a nice touch, but she was still hungry after finishing both. At this point, I was starting to get discouraged with these pretty, yet unsatisfying, sandwiches. Still, I pressed on. The Great Burger By its name alone, it’s clear The Great Burger fancies itself a winner. Occupying a corner on a winding path of fashion boutiques and coffee shops known as Cat Street, the joint is another place that has lines outside the door during lunch hours to prove its popularity. It’s quieter in the evenings. The interior is full of retro magazine advertisements for McDonald’s and Campbell Soup, dry goods and other Americana kitsch that litter TGI Friday’s and its ilk. It’s also full of smoke and has an ashtray on every tabletop. I couldn’t resist the Gorgonzola Burger, eager to see how the funky blue cheese would meld with the griddled-beef patty. Almost as soon as the burger arrived, its shiny, dark-brown sesame bun began sliding off the meat, conveyed by an oozing mass of cheese. The sight of this alone made my blood pressure spike. The gorgonzola played nicely against the juicy burger, which was again cooked too well through for my liking. The greasy, peppery fries were excellent. Most Expensive ZipZap, the final stop in my burger quest, offered the biggest and most expensive burger. Located just a couple blocks from The Great Burger, it has ample outdoor seating and an interior of muted lighting and light jazz. The burger was a 225-gram, 2,100 yen affair. I ordered mine with Monterey Jack cheese, while my companion chose an avocado topping. The whopper was served with a lone, home-made pickle. It came topped with a home-made tomato sauce -- a tangy, less salty version of the supermarket variety -- and tartar dressing. No condiment tray accompanied the burger because the customer is expected to trust the toppings chosen by the chef. This isn’t: “Have it your way;” more like: “Have it the way it is on the menu, or risk dashing the social order.” And truth be told, the chef got it right. As my companion said, the beef “wasn’t ground to oblivion” -- the kernels of minced Wagyu steak were still juicy; its ample thickness produced an excellent charred surface and yummy pink middle. Be warned, though, that ZipZap is frequently closed during its stated operating hours. On other visits, it was shut for a private function and shuttered for the filming of a TV show. Its erratic hours are only disclosed in Japanese on the Web site’s blog, so check before you go. If you are turned away, there are plenty of burger choices nearby, or you can take a cue from the models, and pout hungrily. The Questions Cost? 1,000 yen - 2,100 yen Sound level? Quiet, except for Goro’s. Date place? Yes for ZipZap. Yes for the others too, if you don’t mind looking like a cheapskate. Inside tip? Ask for the homemade buns at The Great Burger. They run out fast. Special feature? Fresh pancakes at J.S. Burger Cafe Private rooms? No. Will I be back? Yes. Rating? Goro’s *, J.S. Burgers *, The Great Burger **, ZipZap *** *T What the Stars Mean **** Incomparable food, service, ambience. *** First-class of its kind. ** Good, reliable. * Fair. (No stars) Poor. *T